On the Pacific side of Panama there are many groups of unihabited islands, most within sight of eachother. Isla Parida was my favorite, a slight sliver of an island. On one side a mellow protected Gilligan's lagoon with beautiful white sand and on the other huge pacific swells breaking on the rocks. A cruisers paradise all the way into the Bay of Panama and then there is a whole other set of Islands to explore.

Panama City is a sharp contrast to the simple fishermen and simple farmers of the rest of the country. Waiting to transit, filling out forms, gathering line handlers and mostly shopping was like going into a war zone. Travel anywhere is done by Taxi and in numbers for safety. People are so desprerate and with nothing else to lose I guess but without knowing the rules we left nothing to chance.

3 young scientists from the Smithsonian Research Unit in Gatun Lake accompany us on our transit thru the Canal. Rafted up to two larger sailboats we enter our first lock. The monkey fists stream down from above and we attach our bow and stern lines to them. When the water starts bubbling up and we start rising like in an elevator the anxiety that we had been feeling quickly evaporates and skillfully we adjust the tension of the lines and soon we are thru to the otherside. Gallard's Cut which I had been looking forward to seeing, was tranversed in a downpour of rain that was so strong that we could not see much of the bow of the boat! The night was spent on Gatun Lake under the stars. Jumping of the side of the boat into this strange feeling Fresh Water under a full moon was nice indeed.

The next day we enter the Carribbean, and we have realized a major milestone of our lives. How many of us has been able to do what we have done.

Colon Panama was a real dump, even scarier than Panama City. We went nowhere and did nothing. While Jan helped another boat throught the canal I spent a few days installing my new Ham Radio set on Palantir. Finally everything put back together we embark on our journey to visit the San Blas Islands of Panama.

Panama to Roatan Honduras

Leaving Colon we made are way to the little bay called Portebello, and anchored Palantir under the cannon of an old Spanish Fort. It was easy to fantasize ourselves 300 years earlier anchored in this same spot taking on Spanish Gold. We make friends with an interesting couple on the Interprise who treat us to evenings under the stars drinking wine from Portugal and watching videos on thier TV.

We stop in at Isla Grande and meet up with some friends, walk up to the Lighthouse on the island and even play some tennis. Rowing back out to Palantir in the evening we come across another boat we know. They inform us that a wonderful person came out to thier boat and sold them a turtle which they planned to eat that evening. This was exactly the wrong thing to say in front of Jan. She politely but passionately describes the plight of the Pacific Green turtle and has the woman in tears. Turtle is hard to cook and as we feared she ended up throwing the whole lot away. But at least they will not encourage the local fisherman to slaughter turtles for cruising boats anymore.

Here are some Log excerpts:

10-18-90 - Floyd

Morning very gloomy but we are underway for San Blas at 0630, light or no wind on the nose the whole way. "Nua Nua" spots the reef for us coming in to Chichime, which is an extremely unreal place of beauty. The local families have Jan's head spinning about Mola's.

10-19-90 - Jan - Chichime

Floyd playing his guitar, new riffs seem to glide w/the sun rays on his back. Kuna indian, one babe in arm another clings to her skirt - she leans against the coco-tree volcanic black hair she stares at the boat... Molas on her breast vivid orange and ruby colors. Attract your eyes. Maybe I'll be the first red-haired white woman to live w/the Kunas and learn how to sew molas. People will come world wide to see...

10-20-90 - Floyd - Chichime

Last night under the silky underbelly black explosion of stars, gentle ripple slapping on the beach, and languid sway of Palantir was as peaceful and serene as it can get. Trying to snorkle yesterday in these embronic warm water reminded me of Perlandra, trying because we couldn't find a reef. I think we have found a very special place, as Hemingway might put it.

That's the way I think of the San Blas Islands, enchanted, unspoiled and incredibly beautiful

From the San Blas islands up to the Bay Islands of Honduras is a long haul. Alot of the passage is over shallow areas called the Rosarita Banks full of shoals and lobster pots. If the weather turns bad it could turn into bad news as the heavy currents and shallow water has but many a tanker on the reefs.

10-30-90 - Floyd

Underway to Roatan via Serrana Banks or San Andres. Palantir, Shadow, C-Jay, Sea Lady, Sea Wing, Sweet Loretta, Antares, and Audrey round out our little flotilla. First day is pretty rough 20-25 knot winds gusting to 30 and confused seas but okay with Jib and Jigger. Fire up Sir Perkins to charge batteries around 1700, no prime, then no pump. Spend a hour or so figuring out how to put in the new one. Sure glad I brought a whole spare. Pumping water now but it doesn't seem like a whole lot.

10-31-90 - Floyd - Passage to Serrana Banks

Pouring out white smoke. Must be obstruction in water intake. Dive over the side holding a rope - nice experience gliding naked along in serene bottomless blue depths at about 2 knots behind Palantir, the water warm and clear. Later discover thru-hull not open all the way. Running cool now but lost everybody as they are now way

11-2-90 - Floyd - Passage

Arrive Serrana Banks sailing 72% of the 300 miles, tropical depression forming near Nicaragua, we might be here awhile, but right now going to get some shuteye.